Unless you are a mechanic by trade, buying a pre-owned ATV can be a bit daunting. You are spending hundreds to thousands of dollars for a piece of machinery which often doesn’t have a clear history. Make a miss while inspecting an ATV and you can be in the hole quickly trying to get it up and running right.

If you stopped a random person on the street they could probably tell you a few common things to check, likely based on their experience buying cars. Things like tire tread, brake pads, oil leaks and the condition of the plastics. The obvious things.

Few would advise you on how to check whether the ATV has been sunk, or how to check piston rings and compression. Things that cost a lot to fix.

I get this question all the time – “Tom, how do I inspect an ATV to so that I don’t buy junk?” So I sat down and started making an exhaustive list of all the things I check whenever I buy a used four wheeler. I should point out this list only covers the physical inspection – before any purchase you should also do an ownership check on the ATV.

63 Things to Inspect on a Pre-Owned ATV

Engine

Timing – Issues noticeable during start up and normal running. Listen for backfires and knocking from the top end of the engine indicating bad valve timing.

Oil – Oil is a great indicator for wear and tear inside the engine. Check oil at filler port for color – dark oil indicates poor maintenance. Check oil plug for metal shavings – too much can indicate poor lubrication, excessive wear, and metal to metal contact. If milky in color/texture, this indicates water in the oil caused by floor or a blown head gasket.

Carburetor – Look for gas dripping from bowl or overflow hose – sticky float. Also check for starting issues when the motor is cold requiring extra throttle to get running, which can indicate clogged pilot jet. Listen for sputters during engine revs which translates to poor air/fuel mixture – main jet and needle placement issues. Inspect flanges for gaps and damage which could impact seal.

Compression – If ATV lacks power, check compression with gauge. Cross-reference reading with the manufacturer specification. Cold start ATV and check for blue smoke which can indicate oil bypassing the rings.

Spark – If ATV won’t start, check spark first. Remove plug and test spark against the frame. Compare spark gap with feeler gauge and compare to manufacturer specification. Brown plug indicates a too rich air/fuel ratio.

Coil Pack – Remove plug and test spark against the frame. If no spark, test power from coil pack with mulimeter.

Mounts – Inspect motor mounts for cracks and bends which could compromise the strength. Most cracks develop along the weld at the frame.

Intake – Check airbox for water residue or excessive dirt past the filter. These can indicate a failing filter, or previous engine flooding. Inspect for any cracks or holes in the airbox that could allow water to intake system.

Filter – Inspect filter for holes, fraying, or warping. Filters should provide a complete seal for the intake tube.

Exhaust – Inspect exhaust flange and bolts to ensure it’s tight against the engine. Check exhaust pipe for cracks and damage that affect flow.

Muffler – Listen to muffler tone and volume. Excessive volume can be an indication that it needs to be repacked or that silencer was removed. Inspect rubber mounts for rot or damage.

Starter Motor – Listen for clicking from starter. If it won’t turn over but you can hear the teeth clicking, this is usually a sign of low battery voltage, malfunctioning motor or a damaged starter gear.

Starter Solenoid – If battery is charged and starter isn’t receiving power, try bypassing the solenoid to check if it is broken.

Pull Start – Pull cord out completely and inspect for any rips or general wear. Check handle for strength, and test start the ATV with pull start.

Block – Inspect exterior of the block and top-end for any cracks. Leaking oil between the bottom and top end can indicate a bad head gasket.

Throttle – Test throttle trigger or twist throttle for tightness and reaction time.

Throttle Cable – Ensure cable has little slack and inspect for cracks or brakes in the wire casing.

Transmission

Gears – Test every gear while riding, accelerating from low to high RPM.

Clutch – Test clutch from a stop, feeling for any slipping. Also test as high RPM. If possible, remove clutch cover and inspect clutch discs.

Reverse – Always test reverse during a test ride. This is the most common gear to fail in a pre-owned ATV.

Oil – The engine and transmission share oil in an ATV. Inspect the oil plug for metal shavings and color.

Case – Inspect exterior of the transmission case for damage including dents and cracks which could cause oil leak or contaminants to enter the transmission.

Drivetrain

Sprockets – Check for split or missing gear teeth. Check for cracks or breaks along the sprocket, which more often occur near any bolts. Inspect sprocket alignment which should be perfectly in line.

Chain – Inspect chain tension on flat ground – 1 inch of up and down slack. Check chain tensioner and guide.

Axle – Inspect axle for any bends which are indicative of a hard impact.

Bearings – Inspect swing arm bearing for wear. Axle should sit tight in the bearing with no play. It should rotate smoothly.

Rear Differential – Test ride ATV and feel for ring and pinion contact issues. Inspect differential housing for cracks or damage. Check differential oil for consistency and color, and plug for metal shavings.

Front Differential – Test ride ATV in 4 wheel drive. Perform same inspection as rear differential.

Axle Shafts – Inspect axle shafts for bends or cracks which are common with heavy impacts.

CV Joints – Check that CV joints have complete movement without any hindrance.

CV Boots – Ensure CV boots are locked tightly on the axle shaft and/or differential housing. Inspect for tears which could allow water or dirt to gum up the joint.

Wheels/Tires

Pressure – Check tire pressure against manufacturer recommendation.

Bead – Ensure tire bead is seated completely in the wheel.

Wheels – Inspect wheels for dents, gouges or cracks which can be indicative of an accident.

Tires – Shape should be round – oval tires indicate they have sat for long periods. Inspect tire condition for excessive wear, rot and foreign objects.

Knuckle – Check knuckles on front wheels for smooth movement left and right. Inspect for cracks or damage.

Bearings – Inspect front and rear axle bearings for smooth rotation. Bearings should have no play.

Steering

Handlebars – Handlebars should be symmetrical and attached tightly to the steering stem. Bent handlebars are a good indicator of a previous accident.

Stem – Inspect steering stem and bearing for smooth movement and straightness. Check tie rod mounts for any cracks which usually develop around the welds.

Tie Rods – Ensure tie rods are straight. Bent tie rods are a strong indicator of a prior accident.

Grips – Inspect grips for wear. They should fit tightly on the handlebars with no movement in any direction.

Brakes

Front Brake Lever – Brake lever should be tight with little play. Pull brake before riding to ensure proper function. Bent levers can be an indicator of an accident.

Foot Brake Lever – Foot brake has more play than front and usually activates near 50% of its movement. Should also be tightly secured to the frame.

Fluid – Open master cylinder and inspect fluid level. Check for air in the system by pulling lever and looking for bubbles. Too much air can cause squishy brakes.

Master Cylinder – Physically inspect the master cylinder. If brakes activate normally, we are looking for any damage to the banjo bolt or plunger that could cause issues in the future.

Brake Lines – Inspect brake lines for any holes or breaks. Ensure banjo bolts are tightened.

Calipers – Physically inspect brake calipers for damage and leaking brake fluid. Ensure mounting bolts are tight and both side calipers activate under pressure.

Rotors – Rotate rotor and check they are straight, not rubbing on the pads. Warped rotors can be felt during braking as the brakes will jerk as you stop.

Drums – Inspect exterior of the drum for damage or cracks. If any issue with drum braking, you will need to inspect the interior of the drum including the housing and pads.

Frame

Frame Tubes – Walk around the ATV and inspect the entire frame. Look for cracks, dents and bends in the frame which would indicate a hard impact.

Front Control Arms – Inspect front control arms (A-arms) for damage. Bent control arms are an indication of an impact, and the most common thing bent in an accident. Check bolts at the frame and knuckle to ensure tightness.

Rear Control Arms – With an independent rear suspension, perform the same tests as the front control arms. With a solid axle, check the swing arm for damage. The swing arm should move up and down freely with no left or right movement.

Bumper – Inspect the bumper for damage.

Body

Plastics – Inspect both top and bottom of plastics for cracks. Check for loose plastics and missing bolts.

Skid Plates – Check skid plates under ATV for breaks, cracks and gouges.

Racks – Ensure racks are tightly affixed to frame. Check for bends or cracks which can be indicative of an impact.

Electrics

Headlights – Stand in front of ATV and check both low and high beam lights.

Taillights – Stand behind ATV with lights on. Pull brake lever and check for functioning light.

Display – Check all functions on the display function. Speed, RPM, Miles and Hours (if applicable). Inspect each light on the dash – Neutral, Gear, Park – work.

Battery – Test battery voltage and amperage with a multimeter. Inspect battery contacts and wires for strong contact.

Accessories

Aftermarket Display – If installed, ensure all functions work properly. Inspect wiring for any frays or bad connections.

Winch – Pull out winch cable and inspect for any damage. Test winch and inspect wiring for any damage.

Lights – Check proper function of any aftermarket lights.